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Centrifuge Oil Filtration Engine Kit Progress

This past week, I made some progress with the engine centrifuge (COF) kits, which you may have seen on YouTube. If you’re not familiar, the COF engine kit purifies the engine oil while the engine is running. The rotor spins at 6,000 rpm, creating centrifugal force and capturing sludge and soot just like a waste oil fuel centrifuge for waste vegetable oil (WVO) or waste motor oil (WMO), aka Black Diesel. These kits will install will extend the life of the oil and engine by removing wear particles that damage the bearings, bore, and pistons. Debris as small as 0.1mm (1/50th the size of a red blood cell) is captured in the rotor and can be cleaned out at the next oil change. 

Centrifuge in engine bay

Sending An Oil Tube To Blackstone Oil Lab For Analysis

The first test vehicle, my 1995 F250 with a 351W engine just crossed 8,000 miles since the last oil change over the summer. Originally, plans were to test the oil at 5,000 miles, but life is busy and it quickly passed by with the number of miles I drive monthly. This past Monday, an oil sample was collected from the engine, which you can watch in this video. In addition to the sample, a previous oil change with 12,000 to 15,000 miles was sent in out of curiosity, though not a base or comparison. This is due to the high miles on the motor oil and not being equipped with a centrifuge system at the time. Results should be received in a few short weeks, and tell us the effectiveness of the centrifuge engine system. 

Oil Being Dropped Off At Post Office

Aside from the lab study, later this week, the rotor will be removed and opened as a leak on the mounting plate is resealed. While the rotor is removed, it’ll be opened so we can examine how much debris it has captured. Typically, these rotors only need to be cleaned every 25,000 to 30,000 miles on a diesel engine. So, with only 8,000 miles and the clean gas-burning 351W engine, I am not expecting to see very much debris or sludge. The leak is caused by the temperature dropping as we go into winter in North Dakota. At the time of installation, I should have used RTV as a sealant but I did not. My mistake, I was too excited during the installation and skipped that step. The leak is not terrible, just a light weep on startup up which leaves a residue on the inner plastic fender it is mounted on. 

New Website Coming Soon For Centrifuge Oil Filtration
Specifically Made for Engine Centrifuge Kits & Information

A new website specific to the COF engine kits will soon be clickable and ready to look at! The website, COFkits.com is under construction and is where you will soon be able to sign up on the waiting list. (Chance to win a FREE COF Engine Kit!!!) The brand “Centrifuge Oil Filtration” (COF for short) will be a sister company to PA Biodiesel Supply. The COF kit, while a centrifuge product, is not related to biodiesel or waste oil fuel, and thus best situated as its own unique company and product. At this time, I do not yet have a release date for the kit, but my hope is that it will be available by spring of next year. Research and testing still need to be done. Once I am done personally testing the COF system on my pickup truck, testers will be selected to install the COF kit on their own engines and report their findings. At this moment, testers are not being selected, but you will soon be able to apply! 

COF Website Home Page

This is the sum of all the updates on the COF project from this past week. In a few days, the oil centrifuge will be removed from my truck to repair the leak and review the rotor, so stay tuned! If you find this project interesting and want to share it with your friends and family, click here so they can learn about it for themselves. 

Oil Updates Coming Soon,
Michael Wheeler

Getting the Perfect Flow Rate with Your Ultimate Force Centrifuge

Perfect Your Waste Oil Centrifuge Flow Rate for Cleaner Fuel

When cleaning waste oil with a centrifuge, flow rate is one of the most important things to get right. Many people think faster is better, but that’s not true when it comes to producing clean fuel. Understanding flow rate will help you get the best results from your Ultimate Force Centrifuge.

Why Flow Rate Really Matters

Think of your centrifuge like a washing machine for oil. The longer the dirty oil stays inside the spinning bowl, the cleaner it becomes. The powerful centrifugal force has more time to pull out dirt, water, and other contaminants without fighting against oil trying to escape too quickly.

For making vehicle fuel, we recommend running at 5 gallons per hour (GPH). This slower speed gives the centrifuge time to do its job properly. If you’re cleaning oil for other uses like oil burners, you can speed it up to 10 GPH and still get good results. The Ultimate Force Centrifuge does have a flow rate rated up to 30 GPH, but you sacrifice oil purity and will remove fewer contaminants.

How Flow Rate Actually Works

Inside your centrifuge bowl, two forces are working against each other. The spinning creates a strong centrifugal force that pushes dirt and contaminants to the bowl walls. At the same time, the flowing oil creates an opposing force trying to escape. When you rush the flow, you make it harder for the centrifugal force to do its job effectively.

The Ultimate Force Centrifuge creates 1,657 times the force of gravity (1,657 G-Force). At a 5 GPH flow rate, your oil experiences this powerful force for a full 6 minutes. That’s plenty of time to settle out even the smallest particles.

Measuring Your Flow Rate is Simple

You don’t need fancy equipment to check your flow rate. All you need is a quart jar and a timer. Here’s the easy way to figure it out:

First, multiply your target flow rate by 4 (since there are 4 quarts in a gallon). Then divide 60 minutes by that number.

For example, if you want 5 GPH:

  • 5 gallons × 4 quarts = 20 quarts per hour
  • 60 minutes ÷ 20 quarts = 3 minutes to fill one quart

Here’s a quick reference for different flow rates:

  • 2.5 GPH = 6 minutes per quart
  • 5 GPH = 3 minutes per quart
  • 7.5 GPH = 2 minutes per quart
  • 10 GPH = 1.5 minutes per quart
  • 15 GPH = 1 minute per quart

Why Heating Makes a Difference

When your oil contains water or is thick and gummy, flow rate becomes even more important. The inline heater needs time to warm the oil to 160°-220°F. This heat evaporates water and makes the oil flow better through the system. Just like hot engine oil drains faster than cold oil, heated oil in your centrifuge separates contaminants more effectively. If you rush the process, you won’t give the heater enough time to work properly.

Factors That Affect Your Flow Rate

The height and size of your oil container affects flow rate more than most people realize. A full 55-gallon drum creates about 1.2 psi of pressure at the bottom. Larger 275 or 330-gallon totes can create 2.5 to 3 psi of pressure.

As your container empties, this pressure drops and your flow rate slows down. Each foot of height above your centrifuge adds roughly 0.38 psi of pressure. A drum placed 5 to 8 feet above your centrifuge will maintain a steadier flow rate.

Using a larger input hose between 5/8″ and 1″ diameter also helps by reducing friction. This is especially helpful if your oil cools as it moves through longer feed lines.

Setting Up Your Flow Control

To control your flow rate properly, use two valves. Set up a gate valve to adjust the flow rate and a ball valve to turn the flow on and off. This way, you don’t have to readjust your flow rate every time you start the centrifuge. In the picture below, you can see that we used two valves.

Pre-heating your oil before it enters the centrifuge will give you cleaner results and help it flow better, especially in cold weather. This simple step can make a big difference in how well your system works and the purity of your oil. We always recommend an inline heater when using a centrifuge.

The Slower the Oil, the Cleaner It Will Be

Remember this simple rule: slower flow rate equals cleaner oil. Taking the time to set up your centrifuge at the right flow rate will pay off with cleaner fuel. Your engines will run smoother, and you’ll save thousands of dollars on fuel costs.

Whether you’re processing a few gallons or hundreds, patience with the flow rate is your key to success. The Ultimate Force Centrifuge is designed to give you the best results when you follow these guidelines.

FREE eBook DOWNLOAD Is Your Engine Waste Oil Compatible? Learn about the different types of diesel engines and if your engine will work on waste oil fuel!  

Black Diesel & Waste Oil Filtration: Why Centrifuges Outperform Filters

Introduction

If you’re exploring alternative fuels like black diesel, waste motor oil (WMO), waste vegetable oil (WVO),  or biodiesel, you know that cleaning waste oil is a major step before using it in a diesel engine. The two most common ways to filter waste oil are using a waste oil centrifuge or filters. But which one works best? A research study on waste motor oil as fuel has some surprising findings about how well each method works—and why filters might not be as good as you think.

The Problem with Dirty Waste Oil Filters

When oil is used in an engine, it picks up metal shavings, dirt, soot, and water. If you burn it in a diesel engine without proper cleaning, these contaminants can cause serious damage. 

“The particles entrained in the high-pressure fuel essentially act as a sandblasting media as it passes through the pumps and injectors,” the study explains. “The most damaging particle sizes are in the 2-10 micron range. They are also the most difficult to filter out.”

To prevent engine damage, WMO needs to be filtered down to at least 1 micron, which is the standard size for diesel fuel filters in many modern engines, like the Cummins QSK38. But how do you remove these tiny particles?

How Cartridge Filters Work (And Their Hidden Problems)

Many people use cartridge filters (like the ones in diesel trucks) or sock filters to clean their waste oil. These filters are rated at different micron levels, such as 10 microns, 5 microns, and 2 microns. The idea is that oil is pushed through the filter, trapping dirt and metal inside. But there’s a big problem—filters can actually add contamination back into the oil!

The study found that some filters released more debris than they removed. “In every single metal species, the cartridge filter sample actually added more contaminants to the sample or remained the same instead of removing anything,” the research states. This happened because the filters were already partially clogged from previous use, causing them to release trapped particles back into the oil. Oil filters have to be changed frequently or you risk contaminating batches with more debris than you started with. 

Filters also have another issue: they can’t remove water from waste oil. If you burn WMO with water in it, you risk damaging your injectors and creating steam in your fuel system.

How Centrifuges Work

A waste oil centrifuge operates using centrifugal force to separate contaminants from the oil. Instead of pushing oil through a mesh or paper filter, the centrifuge spins the oil at high speeds. Heavier contaminants like metal shavings, dirt, and sludge are forced to the outer edge, while the cleaner oil remains in the center and is drained off. This method ensures that even the smallest impurities, which often slip through cartridge filters, are removed effectively. The two styles of centrifuges are bowl style and pressure driven, which is explained below.

“A bowl-type centrifuge is a bowl that spins at … (high) [r]pm. The centripetal force due to centrifugal motion causes the WMO to be pushed up against the walls of the bowl. Heavier particles will stay against the wall while the good oil rises to the top towards the hole in the middle then will drop out into a container below.”​

“A spinner-type centrifuge is powered by the force of the pumped oil itself. Pressurized oil is pumped through the rotor and the velocity of exiting oil through jet nozzles powers the centrifuge.”​

Centrifuges are capable of filtering waste oil down to sub-micron levels. The study found that centrifuges consistently removed contaminants without reintroducing them into the oil, unlike cartridge filters. This makes them highly efficient at purifying waste oil for alternative fuel use.

Why Centrifuges Clean Waste Oil Better

One major advantage of using a centrifuge is that it does not clog like traditional filters. Cartridge filters lose efficiency as they accumulate debris, requiring frequent replacements and maintenance. A centrifuge, on the other hand, can process large volumes of oil without losing effectiveness.

“The process may need to be stopped periodically to disassemble the bowl for cleaning. This involves scraping sludge from the bowl. This sludge will probably be surprising to the user as to how much contamination could have been missed by other methods previously mentioned.”​

Another significant benefit is water removal. Water in fuel can cause injector damage, reduce combustion efficiency, and lead to engine failure. Cartridge filters are ineffective at removing water from oil, but centrifuges successfully extract moisture, ensuring a cleaner and more engine-friendly fuel.

“A spinner-type centrifuge is capable of filtering down to one tenth of a micron but is not intended to remove water or antifreeze. However, the centrifuge did have a slight effect on water removal, reducing contamination by up to 23% in one test.”​

From a cost perspective, centrifuges are a long-term investment. Depending on fuel costs in your area, producing as little as 350 gallons of black diesel is a 100% ROI. While they may require a higher initial cost, they eliminate the need for constantly replacing filters. The research study found that cartridge filters not only became saturated quickly but sometimes worsened contamination. “There were eight species showing negative removal rates, meaning that material was added into the oil by the filtering process.” In contrast, centrifuges provide reliable purification without the cost of filter replacements.

Take Control of Your Fuel Production

If you’re serious about producing fuel for 10¢ a gallon, you need a solution that works. The Ultimate Force Centrifuge was built for fuel producers like you—designed to remove harmful contaminants, extend the life of your engine, and give you the cleanest fuel possible. Stop wasting time with ineffective filters. Get the Ultimate Force Centrifuge today and start producing high-quality fuel with confidence.

Click this link and Order the Ultimate Force Centrifuge Now!

Not Ready to Start? Get the Complete Guide to Black Diesel Production

If you’re still exploring waste oil as fuel, we’ve put together a free information package with everything you need to know. Learn about filtration methods, safety tips, and how to get the best results from waste oil fuel. 

Request your free copy today and take the first step towards independence.

Text 903-563-0568 to Request your Free copy now!

Citation

Bierhaus, Zachary S., “Feasibility and Environmental Implications of Using Waste Motor Oil as Alternative Supplemental Fuel in Contingency Prime Power Generation” (2017). Theses and Dissertations. 807.

https://scholar.afit.edu/etd/807

RPM vs Flow Rate: How They Affect Oil Cleanliness

The Role of RPM and G-Force

RPM is a measurement of how many times the centrifuge bowl spins in one minute. The centrifugal force (g-force) generated by the spinning bowl is directly related to the size of the bowl and RPM. In the case of the Ultimate Force Centrifuge with a bowl diameter of 9.5 inches and operating at 3,450 RPM , which is 57.5 revolutions per second, the resulting g-force is 1,650 times the force of gravity. This force drives contaminants out of the oil and towards the walls of the centrifuge bowl, where they can be trapped and separated.

However, a common misconception is that higher RPMs always lead to cleaner oil. This is not necessarily true. While increasing RPM does enhance the centrifugal force, which can improve the separation of smaller particles, the design of the bowl and the flow rate of the oil are equally, if not more, important.

The Impact of Flow Rate on Oil Cleanliness

Flow rate significantly influences the time oil spends in the centrifuge bowl—known as the residence time. The longer the oil remains in the bowl, the more time the centrifugal force has to act on the particles, improving the separation efficiency, and leading to cleaner oil.

The Ultimate Force Centrifuge is capable of handling up to 30 gph. However, the cleanliness of the oil is inversely proportional to the flow rate. Running the centrifuge at the maximum flow rate will not provide the cleanest oil. For the best results, reducing the flow rate to 15 gph, 10 gph, or even 5 gph allows the oil to spend more time in the centrifuge, enhancing the removal of contaminants.

How the Oil Flows Through the Centrifuge

To understand the relationship between RPM, flow rate, and oil cleanliness, let’s look at the process of oil purification in the centrifuge bowl.

1. Oil Entry and Acceleration: Oil enters the bowl at the center and is directed to the bottom by an accelerator cone which is built into the bowl lid. This accelerator or booster cone distributes the oil by forcing it to the very bottom of the bowl subjecting it to the maximum centrifugal force.

2. Centrifugal Separation: As new oil enters, it pushes the existing oil upwards along the bowl’s walls. The centrifugal force causes heavier particles, contaminants, and water to travel toward the bowl walls, where they get trapped.

3. Oil Exit: The cleaned oil moves across the top of the bowl, reaching the 3 lid breeches. It escapes through the grooves in the lid, spraying upward and out towards the edge of the centrifuge housing. The cleaned oil then escapes through the clean oil drain and into a container.

4. Contaminant Collection: When the unit is turned off, the residual oil (approximately half a gallon) drains through holes at the bottom of the bowl, exiting through the dirty oil port. The debris and matter inside the bowl can then be cleaned out and it’s ready for another run. Depending on the type of oil and level of contamination, the centrifuge bowl only needs to be cleaned every 300 to 500 gallons of oil.

The Importance of Bowl Design

Bowl design is a key component that overshadows the benefits of high RPM. Like the Ultimate Force Centrifuge, a centrifuge with an enclosed bowl design promises contaminants are efficiently trapped and forces the oil to travel along the bowl lid before escaping. In addition, an accelerator or booster cone should be mandatory when selecting a centrifuge. This cone directs the oil to the very bottom of the bowl ensuring it completely travels under the infliction of G-force. When an accelerator cone is not present the oil enters the bowl and splashes entering the oil curve midstream, resulting in sub-par cleanliness results. The bowl design should also allow for effective draining and cleaning of the bowl, for convenience and ease of use.

Practical Recommendations for Optimal Oil Cleanliness

To maximize the efficiency of oil purification using a centrifuge, the following practices are recommended:

1. Optimize Flow Rate: While the centrifuge may handle up to 30 gph, running it at lower flow rates between 5 and 10 gph—significantly impacts oil cleanliness. The extended residence time allows the centrifugal force to more effectively separate contaminants.

2. Regular Maintenance: Periodically inspecting and cleaning the bowl is crucial. After turning off the unit, allow a few minutes for the oil to drain before opening the bowl. This prevents the reintroduction of contaminants into the oil supply and maintains the efficiency of the centrifuge.

3. Monitor Performance: Regularly check the quality of the output oil. Adjust the flow rate as needed to ensure optimal cleanliness. If the oil is not meeting cleanliness standards, consider reducing the flow rate further.

4. Consider Bowl Design: Choose centrifuges with well-designed, enclosed bowls. The design will efficiently trap contaminants and is easy to maintain.

In Summary

In summary, while RPM and g-force are impactful factors for the operation of a centrifuge, they do not solely determine the cleanliness of the oil. The flow rate of the oil and the design of the centrifuge bowl are equally important. It is advised to operate your centrifuge with a flow rate between 5 and 10 gph. The Ultimate Force Centrifuge with its enclosed bowl design and following our flow rate recommendations, will give you high-quality clean oil which can then be used for fuel in diesel engines.

Why Us?

Our Purpose

 PA Biodiesel Supply makes oil filtration simple. We believe every diesel owner should save all the money they can. We want you to start as soon as possible and why we offer 48-hour shipping. We take all the risk out with our 30-day satisfaction guarantee. 

Our History

PA Biodiesel Supply was founded by Joe & Kay Mazenko as a family-owned business. It grew from their search to find excellent quality components to set up their simple oil filtration station. Today PA Biodiesel Supply is located out of East Texas shipping equipment across the world.

How we help 

Diesel costs too much and fuel can be produced at home for pennies. Save thousands of dollars, time, and mess-free filtration. Our centrifuge saves you the two most valuable things in life; Time & Money. Gain freedom by making fuel at home with the Ultimate Force Centrifuge. 

Why our Products 

Did you know oil or fuel filters have an efficiency rating?

Our centrifuges and kits will allow you to clean your oil to an efficiency no filter can do and all without the messiness and spills. Our products have been carefully designed and selected to be efficient and affordable. You will save thousands of dollars. You will save time. A dollar saved is a dollar earned. Save time, and money, and gain freedom. When you invest in our equipment, you are investing in your future. 

Oil Filtration Made Simple

Using an Inline Heater with a Waste Oil Centrifuge

When it comes to cleaning waste oil using a centrifuge, using an inline heater in your setup will make a significant difference. Typically, oil is heated within the range of 170°F to 200°F for optimal performance. However, the specific temperature at which the heater should be set depends on the flow rate of your oil. The quicker your flow rate the higher the temperature on the heater to adequately heat the oil. 

If you do not use a heater when processing waste motor oil it is highly recommended to dilute the viscosity of the oil with diesel. Never mix vegetable oil with diesel fuel, the two oils will separate and cause issues when using the fuel.

Here are the top reasons an inline oil heater should be used:

1. Better separation of contaminants: A heater enables the centrifuge to effectively capture debris in the oil, significantly boosting its efficiency in a single pass.

2. Increased production rate: By incorporating a heater, you can ramp up the rate at which you process oil, leading to improved efficiency overall.

3. Water content reduction: Heating the oil facilitates the evaporation of water content reducing the water content present in the oil.

Our inline heater is designed to bolt seamlessly to the leg of the centrifuge, offering both 120V and 240V options for your convenience. To optimize its performance, ensure that the oil is fed into the bottom port of the heater, with the output directed into the centrifuge at the top. This setup prevents the heater element from burning out as it remains consistently submerged in oil. Never use a hose from the heater feeding the centrifuge that is not rated for heat.

Integrating an inline heater into your oil centrifuge setup is a smart move. Not only does it improve debris capture efficiency and processing rates, but it also helps reduce water content, ensuring cleaner oil output for your operations. 

Inline Oil Heater

Biodiesel & Black Diesel Dictionary

Below, you’ll discover commonly used definitions and terms within the oil burner and biodiesel community. Familiarizing yourself with these terms is important when processing and producing waste oil. The provided definitions cover various aspects of the biodiesel process, including acronyms and chemicals utilized in biodiesel production. In addition, it covers terms and acronyms used when processing Waste Oils or Black Diesel. 

ASTM: The organization that sets international standards for a variety of materials. The specification for biodiesel is ASTM D6751. Renewable diesel falls under ASTM D975, the diesel specification.

Autoignition: Autoignition is the spontaneous ignition of a substance, such as biodiesel, without an external ignition source. Understanding the autoignition temperature is crucial for safe handling and storage.

B20: B20 refers to a blend of 20% biodiesel and 80% diesel fuel. It is a common biodiesel blend used in various diesel engines.

B5, B10, B20: A fuel that is a blend of biodiesel and petroleum diesel is commonly abbreviated to a “B” and then the percentage of biodiesel in that fuel. B20, for example, is 20 percent biodiesel and 80 percent petroleum.

Biodiesel: A cleaner-burning alternative to petroleum diesel that is made from renewable resources that would otherwise have no further use, including recycled cooking oil, waste animal fats, and vegetable oils.

Biodiesel: Biodiesel is a renewable fuel derived from organic materials such as waste vegetable oil or animal fats through a process called transesterification.

Brake Fluid: Brake fluid, specifically Dot 3 fluid, is cautioned against in backyard biodiesel production due to its harmful nature. It should not be used as a feedstock.

BTUs: BTUs (British Thermal Units) measure the energy content of fuels. Understanding the BTU value helps assess the efficiency of a fuel source.

Cetane number: A measure of a fuel’s combustion speed and a common indicator of fuel quality. The higher the Cetane number, the shorter the ignition time. Biodiesel and renewable diesel have a higher Cetane number than petroleum diesel.

Cloud Point: The temperature at which wax crystals cause fuel to appear cloudy. The higher the Cloud Point, the sooner the fuel starts to gel. It is one way to measure cold weather performance.

Distillation: The process of purifying a liquid using evaporation and condensation. Distillation is one of the ways biodiesel is purified, and distilled biodiesel has several benefits, including superior cold-weather performance.

Emulsification: Emulsification is the process of mixing two immiscible liquids, like water and oil. In biodiesel production, avoiding emulsification is crucial to prevent water contamination

Emulsified Oil: Emulsified oil results from the mixing of oil and water, which can complicate the biodiesel production process. Proper separation is necessary for quality fuel.

Ethanol: Ethanol is an alcohol that can be used in biodiesel production. It reacts with triglycerides in the transesterification process.

Ethylene Glycol: Ethylene glycol is a substance to be avoided in biodiesel production as it can be harmful. It is commonly found in antifreeze.

Fatty acid methyl esters: The chemical name for biodiesel, often abbreviated as FAME. A FAME molecule is comprised of a fatty acid and an alcohol.

Feedstock: The raw material used to create fuel. For biodiesel and renewable diesel, these are renewable resources such as recycled cooking oil, vegetable oils, and waste animal fats.

Flash Point: The flash point is the lowest temperature at which a substance vaporizes to form an ignitable mixture. It’s a safety consideration in handling biodiesel.

FPHE: FPHE stands for flat plate heat exchanger, a device used to transfer heat efficiently in biodiesel production processes.

Glycerin: Glycerin, or glycerol, is a byproduct of the transesterification process in biodiesel production. Proper disposal or utilization is essential.

Gravity Fed Centrifuge: A gravity-fed centrifuge is a direct-drive centrifuge with the motor directly coupled to the rotor. It facilitates the separation of impurities from biodiesel.

Greenhouse gases: Gases, such as carbon dioxide, that trap heat in the atmosphere, contributing to global warming.

Hydrocarbons: An organic compound containing carbon and hydrogen. In the presence of nitrogen oxides (NOx) and sunlight, unburned hydrocarbons create ground-level ozone, which harms lungs and creates urban smog.

Lubricity The ability of a lubricant to reduce friction and prevent wear in an engine. Ultra-low sulfur diesel has very little lubricity, whereas biodiesel has great lubricating characteristics.

Methanol: Methanol is a key component in the transesterification process of biodiesel production. It reacts with triglycerides to form biodiesel.

Neat biodiesel: Biodiesel that has not been blended with another fuel. It is 100 percent biodiesel and is also called B100.

Particulate matter: Particulates — including solids and liquid droplets— from exhaust systems harm the climate and human health. Fine particles can penetrate deep into a person’s lungs and even enter the bloodstream.

pH Testing: pH testing involves measuring the acidity or alkalinity of biodiesel. It ensures the fuel falls within acceptable ranges for engine compatibility.

Pressure Centrifuge: A pressure centrifuge is a centrifuge that spins from oil pressure escaping the rotor, aiding in the separation of impurities from biodiesel.

Regular Unleaded Gasoline (RUG): RUG refers to regular unleaded gasoline, a type of fuel that should be avoided in the production of biodiesel due to its different chemical composition.

Renewable diesel: A renewable fuel that is chemically similar to petroleum diesel but with much lower emissions. It is made from the same feedstocks as biodiesel but has a different production process and meets a different specification.

Settling: Settling involves allowing oil to sit so that water and oil separate, and debris drops out of the oil. It is a crucial step in biodiesel production.

SVO: SVO stands for Straight Vegetable Oil, which can be used as a feedstock in biodiesel production.

Transesterification: A chemical process in which feedstock is reacted with an alcohol (typically methanol) to make biodiesel.

ULSD: ULSD stands for ultra low sulfur diesel, a type of diesel fuel with reduced sulfur content.

W80: W80 is a fuel blend consisting of 80% waste oil and 20% regular unleaded gasoline.

W90: W90 is a fuel blend consisting of 90% waste oil and 10% regular unleaded gasoline.

Wash Process: The wash process is a step in biodiesel production that involves removing impurities, catalyst residues, and glycerol from the biodiesel.

Waste Motor Oil (WMO): WMO is used lubricating oil that can be recycled and potentially used in the production of black diesel.

Waste Vegetable Oil (WVO): WVO is a discarded cooking oil, often used as a feedstock in biodiesel production.

WATF: WATF stands for Waste Automatic Transmission Fluid, which can be considered as a feedstock in biodiesel production. WATF is one of the best oil sources that can be used as a fuel because of its viscosity and detergent properties.

UFC Motor Replacement 

1. Bowl Removal

Using an 8 mm Allen wrench, secure the bowl and loosen the nut by turning it counterclockwise. Gently pull the bowl out of the housing and place it in a container to collect any residual oil.

bowl remove

2. Bowl Mount Removal

Utilize a gear puller obtained from an auto parts store. Attach the three hooks to the bottom of the bowl mount. Hand-tighten the gear puller, then use a wrench for further tightening to safely remove the mount from the motor shaft. Ensure the force is applied to the motor shaft, not the housing, allowing the mount to slide off smoothly.

Bowl Mount Removal

3. Motor Removal

Using a 4mm Allen wrench, remove the three legs of the Ultimate Force Centrifuge, placing the motor base on the ground. This will aid in removing the motor from the unit. Using a 3/16 Allen head screwdriver, remove the 4 bolts securing the motor. Set them aside in a safe location, not damaging the sealed washers if reusing. Remove the housing by lifting up from the motor. Flip the housing upside down and, with a mallet and socket, gently tap out the old seal.

4. Install New SKF Seal

Lightly coat the Ultimate Force Centrifuge Housing with silicone or grease to facilitate seal installation. Verify the coil spring inside the SKF seal is properly seated. Use a socket or pipe fitting of similar size to tap the motor shaft seal into place carefully. Avoid overdriving the seal to prevent compromise or damage.

Install New SKF Seal
Install New SKF Seal 2

5. Install The Motor

Place the motor on a stable surface, lubricate the motor shaft with grease, and slide the housing onto the motor shaft, ensuring not to damage the rubber seal. Use the sealed washers from our reseal kit on the 4 housing bolts and securely tighten them into the motor.

Install The Motor
Install The Motor 2

6. Install V-Seal and Apply Anti-Seize

Slide the V-seal down the motor shaft, pushing it firmly into the motor shaft seal with the V portion facing down to prevent leaks. Apply a thin layer of antifreeze onto the motor shaft for easier future installation and removal of the bowl mount.

7. Install Bowl Mount

Heat the bowl mount in boiling water for 5 to 10 minutes. Using pliers, carefully pick up the bowl mount and quickly slide it onto the shaft, avoiding burns or drops. Ensure the bowl mount is fully seated by the groove, catching the motor shaft lip. Allow the bowl mount to cool for 5 minutes; if not fully seated, repeat the process.

Install Bowl Mount
Install Bowl Mount 2

8. Attach Bowl to oil centrifuge unit

Place the bowl into the housing and onto the motor shaft. Hold the bowl steady with an 8 mm Allen wrench and turn clockwise to tighten the nut.

bowl attach

Ultimate Force Centrifuge: Instruction Manual

The Ultimate Force Centrifuge ships completely assembled with the exception of leg attachment, threading of fittings, and basic wiring.  If you purchased an inline heater, you will need to install it.  While every precaution has been taken to be sure your equipment arrives in perfect condition by packing with great care, handling and shipping is out of our control.  Upon its arrival, please inspect the package and report any obvious damage to us right away.

*Tools necessary:  4 mm, 5 mm, 8 mm, and 3/16” Allen wrenches 

SAFETY

As with all equipment, there are safety hazards involving oils, centrifuge use, static electricity, and piping of your unit and holding tank.

  • Never operate the centrifuge without the cover securely attached.
  • Never open a running centrifuge.
  • Caution must be taken when centrifuging all flammable liquids.
  • Ground all equipment before use to prevent static electricity.

It is the owners’ sole responsibility to decide what types of liquids are safe to centrifuge taking into consideration flammable vapors.

Unpacking 

When unpacking your centrifuge pull the unit out of the box and set aside on carpet or padded area so you do not scratch the lid.  Since the unit weighs approximately 65 lbs, caution should be used when removing it from the box. The packing peanuts are biodegradable and can be recycled or disposed in a sealed bag.

The Ultimate Force comes completely built except for the legs.  The legs are installed on the unit in reverse for ease of shipping.  Hold the top of the leg in place.  While using a 4 mm Allen wrench, remove the two screws on each leg.  Turn the legs around and reinstall.  You should be able to hold the leg in place and hand tighten both bolts.   When both bolts are in, using the Allen wrench, tighten both bolts again.  When the three legs are reversed, they will extend out from the unit as pictured.

120V Wiring

Consult the Wiring Diagram on the motor 

  1. Identify the color-coded wires on the motor. The most common colors are black, white, brown, red, and green
  2. Remove the black plastic cover on the side of the motor and install the wire clamp. Run your power cord through the connector.
  3. Match the black wire on the motor to position 2 as in the photo.
  4. On your 120V cord connect the Hot lead (Typically black) to position 1.
  5. Match the white wire on the motor to position 4.
  6. The white wire on the power cord is neutral, connect it to position 4 as well.
  7. Connect the ground wire to the ground screw on the motor.
  8. Use wire connectors or wire nuts to secure the connections.
  9. Reinstall the motor cover plate.
  10. Once all connections are made, turn on the power supply and test the motor.

240V Wiring

  1.  The motor arrives with the three motor wires configured for 120V. The Brown, White, and Black wire will need to be disconnected.
  2. Install the wire connector onto the motor side and run your power cord through the connector.
  3. Match the Black and White wire to position 3.
  4. Connect the brown wire to position 5 or “P” which may be plastic.
  5. One of each hot wire from your power cord will be connected to a Hot Lead.
  6. Connect the ground from the power cord to the motor ground screw.
  7. Use wire connectors to install the wires to the proper position.
  8. Reinstall the motor plate cover. 
  9. Turn on the power supply to test the motor.

*Wiring may vary depending on the motor your unit has installed. Always consult the wiring diagram on the motor prior to testing.*

Setting up Attachments

Set your unit on a flat surface below the contaminated oil feed and above the container being used to catch the clean oil.  

The centrifuge comes with a vibration damper at the bottom of all three legs.  Each damper has two holes which are to be used to mount your centrifuge to a hard surface.

Recommendation:  Use a piece of plywood larger than your clean oil container.  Mount the plywood to the container ensuring that the equipment and plywood will not move.

The clean oil and contaminated oil drain both come with all fittings included.  The ¾” 90 and the ½ “ 90 will need their respective hose connection fittings installed as pictured below.  You will need to purchase ¾” hose for the clean oil drain and ½” hose for the contaminated oil drain.  The length of these hoses is dependent on the distance to your container. 

Your supply container should have a gate valve to control the oil flow and a ball valve to be used as a shutoff valve.  The flow will be dependent on temperature as well as the amount of oil in the container. As the temperature of the oil decreases, its viscosity increases, resulting in a slower flow. Additionally, as the oil level decreases within the container, the flow rate will also decrease.

The clean oil drain is ¾” and needs to have fittings attached to the bottom of the centrifuge as in the picture above on the left. Clean oil will drain during operation and will cease draining upon shutdown.

The contaminant oil drain is ½”.  Connect the fittings as pictured above on the right. The ½” hose from the contaminant side will only drain when shutting down the unit or when overflowing.

Feed to Centrifuge Attachment

The centrifuge comes with a 1/2” hose barb to introduce oil into it.  Make the connections from your dirty oil container to include a gate valve for adjusting flow, a ball valve as an on/off flow valve, ending with a ½” hose barb.  Connect the two hose barbs with ½” clear braided hose.

The oil entry fitting is a ½” hose barb, 90 and reduced down to a ¼” nipple.  Install the  ¼” nipple into the opening on top of the lid.  (This will be a tight fit due to o-rings in the opening.)  The lid has two breather caps for forced ventilation.

Heater Installation

When attaching the heater to the leg, first hand tighten one bolt through the bottom hole in the leg and into housing.  Then attach the heater using the top hole.  Place bolt through the top hole in the heater and centrifuge leg and into housing, then remove bottom bolt from leg and swing heater into place aligning bottom heater hole with leg hole.  Bolt together and tighten both bolts.

From your dirty oil container, run your ½ “ hose to the bottom hose barb on the heater.  Oil should always be introduced into the bottom of the heater and exit the top ensuring the heating element is always submerged.  Connect the top hose barb with the 400 degree F. hose to the ½” hose barb on the lid of the centrifuge.  NEVER use a hose from the heater feeding the centrifuge that is not rated for heat.  Place a  ¼ “ plug in the bottom of the heater. You are now set up and ready to turn your unit on. 

NOTE:  Always turn the centrifuge on first (you want the centrifuge on before you open the oil flow), and turn the centrifuge off last (you want the centrifuge running until you turn the oil flow off).  

Finishing the Centrifuge Run

After you have turned the centrifuge off, the bowl will quit spinning and will automatically drain  out of the dirty oil drain.  Do not remove the bowl from the unit until all oil has drained out.  This can be verified by checking the dirty oil drain hose.  

Bowl Removal

With an 8 mm allen wrench, hold the bowl steady and loosen the nut.  Turn counterclockwise to loosen the nut. Pull the bowl out of the housing and place it in a container to catch any residual oil left in the bowl.

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Bowl Lid Removal

With a 4 mm Allen wrench, hold the bowl steady, loosen and remove six screws.

After removal of screws, lift the lid and turn counterclockwise approximately 1 ½” to release the locking lid.

The bowl does not necessarily need to be removed for each cleaning, as the bowl itself is self draining.  Once the bowl lid is removed, you can simply wipe out the bowl.

When replacing the bowl lid, ensure the seal is properly placed in the groove.  Make sure all bolts are tight.  Set bowl on bowl mount inside housing.  Holding with one hand, tighten the nut.

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Once your bowl has been installed, check all bolts on the bowl lid and the bowl mount for tightness.  Make sure the seal for the housing is in the groove and install the housing lid.  Lock down the three latches.  You are now ready to start another run.

Disclaimer:

 Every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy and completeness of the instruction manual. However, PA Biodiesel Supply, a Division of Wheeler Inspirations LLC, makes no warranties, expressed or implied, regarding errors or omissions, nor will it be held liable for the use of this product or any adapted version of this product, and assumes no legal liability nor responsibility for loss or damage resulting from use of the information contained herein.